Review: The Refinery

I had heard that the Refinery was still serving some of the old Bistro's menu while they got their legs beneath them and made some changes.  A guest and I decided to visit the Refinery after they pulled together their first all-Refinery menu.  Some of the other foodies in the area were talking about the unusual food combinations we could expect from the Bakers and I could not wait to sample their craft.

This review is sort of like licking the batter off the spoon--the Refinery is still under construction and it isn't fully cooked yet.  I have no doubt that things will slowly rise and bake to perfection over the next few weeks.

The Space:

The decor has changed dramatically.  Along the walls are framed 1950s cheesy horror movie posters.  We shared our table with a zombie and a 50 foot woman.  The room is now a deep gray-purple and the trim has been painted to look like the stained wood moldings you'd expect in one of our local bungalows.  There are no curtains yet, which gave the space a bare feeling and sound did echo some.  The wall that used to hold the large mirror is now covered in chalkboard paint and filled with useful information like where your veggies came from, what sorts of beer you can order, the specials, and the fact that the upstairs area is going to be a bar in the coming weeks. Oh, and there's a jackalope peering over the guests and keeping order.  (If you don't tip your server, it will attack, so be wary.)

The Service:

Nearly every table was filled and there didn't appear to be enough food servers for all of them.  Our server was friendly, eager, and efficient; despite how busy he was, we felt like we were well-served.

The Menu:

The menu was a single 8.5x11 sheet of plain paper with a simple list of food.  The selection was as eclectic as I was expecting with everything from a burger to duck breast to choose from.  Keeping in mind that the business is still ramping up, the menu was short. I had no trouble finding something that interested me.

The Food:

We ordered two appetizers, two mains, and two desserts in order to give the menu a good exercising and also because we just plain love food.

Appetizers were the ravioli and the scallops in lentils.  Our mains were the Key West shrimp and the duck breast with roasted beets. Finally, dessert was the 'nanna tiramisu for both of us because, well, we'd seen one come out and simply desired it.

Rather than describe each dish, let me describe instead the components, because I think this will give you a better idea of what to expect here.  The menu will likely change often but the experience should remain the same.

The vegetables deserve special attention because they are all locally grown from Urban Oasis hydroponic gardens in Tampa Bay.  The beets were amazing, as was the rocket salad and everything else we consumed.  You can taste the quality. 

Each item on the plate was crafted with experience and skill. The beets, by example, were crispy on the outside from high-heat roasting and soft and sweet on the inside.  The turnip puree was smooth and didn't disguise the vegetable at all.  The duck was moist and nicely flavored too.  Each item on the plate was enjoyable on its own.  However, they didn't all complement each other--the flavors of each were too similar in texture and tone.  Again, the important fact here is that the quality of each item was high; I'll return to a restaurant that has skilled chefs as this one clearly does. 

There was a faint theme in some of the food that I noticed, whether intentional or not.  I'd like to point it out because it was a fun idea and perhaps if I make a big deal about it they'll emphasize it more.  Several of the items we ate could be described as the sort of stuff Mrs Cleaver would serve to The Beaver only reinvented as cuisine rather than simple comfort food.  The two best examples of this are the risotto and the banana pudding.  The risotto was prepared with cheese and onions, lightly breaded and formed into a cake.  This reminded me of mac-n-cheese on steroids.  The bite I stole from my companion was a great balance of onions to cheese and the texture was creamy with the breading adding a bit of fun.  The tiramisu was a re-invented grandma's banana pudding with lady fingers rather than nilla wafers. It was prepared like tiramisu with the lady fingers soaked in coffee (Kahlua?) but they were standing on end holding the pudding in place.  I'm very glad we each got one because after one bite there was no sharing.  With the 1950s movie posters I am crossing my fingers in hopes that we see more of these kinds of dishes that mix nostalgia with culinary art.  I wonder what they could do with the lowly TV dinner?

Summary:

This is a place you go to explore and savor your food.  The setting is quirky and not fussy, which is a comfortable change from most high-end restaurants in Tampa.  Combat boots and tattoos are as fitting here as penny loafers and a button-down collar.  Expect the menu to change often and be imaginative and daring.  The kitchen has talent to spare and the service binds it all together into a fun experience.